Italian food

Italian food isn’t just spaghetti any more

Mario’s versus Roberto’s  — The Bronx

The Migliucci family has been serving Neapolitan style Italian food since 1919. A James Beard Award winner in 2000 we started with Asparagus Fiorucci and Eggplant Siciliana followed by a stracciatella a la Romana Soup.  We tried several different pastas including Ziti a la Sorrentina and Spaghetti with anchovies. Two of the entourage had shrimps oreganate;two had veal scaloppine a la Mario and two had steak a la pizzaiola.  You can get a pre-fixe meal for $30.00. Mario’s made you want to go back and help serve up the plates, maybe stick your finger in the tomato sauce and certainly pick up the crumbs from the pizza. Go here for a reasonably priced meal with outstanding fresh pastas, pizza and entrees.

Roberto’s doesn’t take reservations and the wait can be intimidating on a Saturday night. He has a Neapolitan oven which puts out some of the best pizza in the tri-state area and always has buffalo mozzarella. We had the smoked mozzarella, pancetta and butternut-squash puree pizza. The dinner entrees tend to be in the waiter’s head and they don’t seem to like the idea that you want to know the price before ordering but unless you don’t care how much it costs you might check it out because entrees can be in the low 20’s to the high 40’s. I tried t he stracciatella soup here as well. I guess it must be part of my egg drop soup culture — both of them had lots of stringed eggs floating through the chicken broth. The calamaria sauteed in garlic oil was full of flavor. We each had specials — baked codfish in tomato sauce with capers, rabbit stew with fresh rosemary, bistecca served with eggplant, sweet cherry peppers, arugula & shaved pecorino and a veal chop. We also had a side of broccoli rabe sauteed in garlic and oil.

If you want a casual evening out I would go to Mario’s. The pastas and sauces are amazing and reasonably priced. If you want a special dinner with a great wine list and don’t mind waiting in line — Roberto’s might be your spot.

No matter that Soprano’s filmed in Mario’s for authenticity — they both claim it is the safest neighborhood in America (unless of course someone has a hit out on you.)

Esca — Manhattan (Batali Seafood)

Chef Dave Pasternack’s skill with seafood and knowing when something needs a little more something has garnered him accolades in NYC and having Mario Batali and Joe Bastianich as partners doesn’t hurt getting some attention in the press. We went for the tasting menu. Here is a sample of what you might expect.

CRUDO DEL MERCATO

FIVE EXTRA “CRUDO” TASTING SUPPLEMENT
$25.00 PER PERSON

PORCINI

FRITTI

MOLECHE

SPAGHETTI NERI

SALMONE SELVAGGIO

DOLCI

We were anticipating spending some money — the food was art with flavor, the wine pairings were well thought out — you weren’t drinking Kendall Chardonnay and Sutter Home Zinfandel here.

YOu can order Brill, grey snapper, wreckfish (from the Iron Chef show), scorpionfish, copper river salmon (whatever is fresh and moves them) as appetizer, several types of local clams or maybe a suuny side up farm house egg with house cured ivory salmon gravlax or marinated sardines with peperonata or spaghetti Neri with squid ink spaghetti with green chilis and scallion.

If you are into fish — this is a place to go and order a whole sea bass with caperberries for two or red mullet wrapped in fig leaves with walnuts and mint. It’s not Babbo — it’s ESCA and deserves its own following.

Biba’s– Sacramento

Biba has published 600,000 cookbooks (I know where 10 of them are) and taught classes at the restaurant and on television. I had to go see how she was cooking all of the food I was eating at home.

Dinner – Spring 2012
Calamari Fritti Crisp, deep-fried small squid with paprika	$12.00
Asparagi con Prosciutto e Uovo Sodo Local asparagus and Prosciutto di Parma with an Azolla Farms poached egg	$12.50
Burrata con Carciofini Sweet Burrata cheese with oven roasted cherry tomatoes, artichoke hearts and extra virgin olive oil	$13.50
Animelle con Pancetta Affumicato, Scalogno e Piselli Sauteed sweetbreads with smoked pancetta, caramelized shallots, peas, fava beans and Limoncello	$14.50
AntipastoMisto Antipasto of speck, salami, sweet gorgonzola, marinated olives and frittata	$16.50
Primi Piatti
La Minestra del Giorno Soup of the day	A.Q.
La Pasta Ripiena del Giorno Housemade stuffed pasta of the day	A.Q.
Gnocchi del Giorno Housemade spinach ricotta gnocchi of the day	A.Q.
Lasagne Verdi alla Bolognese Ten layers of housemade pasta laced with a Bolognese meat ragu and creamy bechamel sauce (Thursday and Friday only)	$19.50
Tagliatelle Verdi ai Gamberi Housemade spinach tagliatelle with prawns, minced San Marzano tomatoes, garlic, basil and hot pepper flakes	$18.50
Garganelli con Salsiccia, Funghi Secchi e Pomodoro Garganelli with a sausage, porcini mushroom and tomato sauce	$17.50
Fettuccine con Verdure Primaverili Housemade fettuccine with spring vegetables, smoked prosciutto, basil, butter and Parmigiano	$16.50
Orecchiette con Cape Sante, Broccoli, Aglio e Olio Orecchiette with scallops, broccoli rabe, garlic, hot pepper flakes and extra virgin olive oil	$18.00
Spaghetti alla Carbonara Primaverile Spaghetti with smoked pancetta, fresh peas, eggs and Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese	$16.50
Secondi Piatti
Costoletta di Vitello alla Milanese Crisp, breaded veal chop Milano style, served with asparagus and Prosciutto di Parma	$38.00
Grigliata di Carne Mista alla Romagnola Marinated mixed grill of lamb chop, pork and fennel sausage, served with baby carrots, snap peas, spring garlic and mint	$34.00
Stufato di Coniglio con Verdure e Pomodoro Oven-braised rabbit with a pea, pancetta, wine and tomato sauce served with grilled polenta	$26.50
Bistecca alla Fiorentina con la Peperonata Grilled, Rib-Eye steak with cracked black pepper served with “Pepperonata”, roasted bell peppers and sweet onions with aged balsamic	$34.00
Fegato di Vitello Sauteed Venetian calf’s liver with caramelized onions and white wine served with fried polenta	$25.00
Branzino con Limone e Capperi Pan-roasted Sea Bass with a butter, lemon, caper and wine sauce, served with winter vegetables	$28.00
Insalata di Cape Sante e Panzanella Primaverile Grilled scallops with a salad of asparagus, peas, cherry tomatoes, spring onions and arugula with extra virgin olive oil and crisp Parmigiano croutons	$28.00
Pesce del Giorno Fish of the day	A.Q.
Insalate
Insalata di Barbabietole, Cipolle e Balsamico Multicolored roasted beet salad, with sweet onions, Pecorino cheese, extra virgin olive oil and red wine vinegar	$9.50
Insalata Mista Primaverile Spring mixed lettuces, shaved carrots and radishes with a balsamic and extra virgin olive oil dressing	$9.00
Lattuga Romana al Gorgonzola Romaine salad with roasted walnuts in a creamy gorgonzola dressing	$8.50

Traittoria Italia– Spokane

Delphina– San Francisco

Acquerello– San Francisco

A16– San Francisco

Mondomio–Philadelphia

Davio’s — Boston

Maggiano’s Little Italy — Boston

Vincenzo’s–Louisville

Carmine’s Il Terrazo– Seattle

Assagio– Seattle

Il Bistro-Seattle

Angelo’s — Couer d’Alene